Because it is summer and tomatoes will be in abundance soon I thought it might be fun to explore some (not all) of the history of this much loved fruit...or is it a vegetable? Believe it or not there is still some confusion on the matter. The tomato really didn't see American dinner tables until the mid 1800's! You can read more about this in a book called "Life is Meals - A Food Lover's Book of Days" by James and Kay Salter where they discuss the phenomenon of Colonel Robert Gibbon Johnson on a September day in 1820 eating tomatoes in front of a crowd.
"On this day (September 26) in 1820, Colonel Robert Gibbon Johnson, nearly fifty and dressed in a black suit, ruffled shirt, and three-cornered hat, mounted the steps of the Salem County courthouse in New Jersey and before a crowd of some two thousand fascinated spectators, proceeded to eat raw tomatoes. Though many believed this would turn out to be an act of public suicide, Johnson showed no ill effects, proving once and for all that tomatoes were not poisonous nor the cause of either stomach cancer or appendicitis."
He had trouble convincing his neighbors that tomatoes were good for anything but decoration! Now, New Jersey is famous for the quality of it's tomatoes and the Heinz Ketchup plant is located in Salem City, NJ!
Before ketchup began to be widely marketed families made and canned their own. This recipe is over 100 years old and came from a farm in Connecticut. I include this not thinking that you will actually make your own (read - laborious task) but that you will gain an appreciation of the time that women put into something as simple as 'ketchup'.
Tomato Ketchup
24 ripe tomatoes
6 onions, peeled
6 green peppers
1/4 cup salt
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 Tbsp. ginger
2 Tbsp. cinnamon
2 Tbsp. mustard
6 cups vinegar
Peel tomatoes, and cook all ingredients six hours, stirring often. Pour into sterilized bottles and seal.
That's it. As with many recipes from the late 1800's or early 1900's the recipe assumes much on the part of the cook!
However, the Rumford Cookbook recipe (while similar) offers a little more insight.
Tomato Catsup
4 quarts sliced tomatoes
8 green peppers
4 level Tbsp. salt
1 quart vinegar
2 level Tbsp. white pepper
3 level Tbsp. mustard
1 level Tbsp. allspice
Cook the tomatoes and peppers in the salt and vinegar till tender. Rub through a sieve, passing through all the pulp possible; add the spices and seasonings, and boil all slowly for three hours. Bottle and seal when cold.
Now at least the last recipe (from a 1926 cookbook) cuts the cooking time in half but it is still a huge effort! The next time you put that bottle of ketchup or 'catsup' on the table think about the time your great-grandmother put into the same condiment! Things could always be worse.
Roberta Rosa writes a food blog that is all about retro recipes and life of days gone by. She is delightful and you will enjoy reading her site, Roberta's Realities.
Roberta's blog is a rich collection of 'retro' and 'heirloom' recipes that are just too good to be true. She writes and shares these recipes and the history surrounding them. If you love history from the kitchen, this is your place! This is a favorite for any historic food buff!
(PS. She still write about all sorts of other fun stuff as life happens...and it does!)
































